Fence Calculator

A full material list for a wood picket fence — posts, rails, pickets and post-hole concrete — from the total fence length.

Measure along the fence line; add all sides together for a full yard.
8 ft is the standard spacing for wood privacy fences.
Two rails suits fences up to about 6 ft; taller fences often use three.
A nominal 1×6 picket is actually 5.5 in wide.
Use 0 for a board-on-board look; small gaps shrink as pickets dry.
Rule of thumb: about half a 50 lb bag per post for a typical 10 in × 2 ft hole; deep or wide holes take more.

Result

Sections
Posts
Rails
Pickets
Concrete bags (50 lb)

Units & conversions used

Imperial inputs are feet for length and spacing, inches for picket width and gap; counts are whole pieces rounded up. Metric inputs are converted first: 1 m = 3.28084 ft, 1 cm = 0.3937 in. Picket counts assume the privacy-fence layout: pickets run continuously along the full fence length at your stated gap.

Formula & source

Sections = fence length ÷ post spacing, rounded up
Posts = sections + 1
Rails = sections × rails per section
Pickets = fence length(in) ÷ (picket width + gap), rounded up
Concrete bags = posts × bags per post, rounded up

Source: standard wood-fence estimating: posts stand at each section end (so one more post than sections), rails span post to post, and pickets are counted by their width-plus-gap module along the run. The half-bag of 50 lb concrete per post is a common rule of thumb for a standard post hole; your hole diameter and depth below the frost line govern the real amount — the per-post figure is an input, so adjust it to your hole size.

Worked example (you can verify by hand)

Input: 100 ft fence, 8 ft post spacing, 2 rails per section, 5.5 in pickets with 0.5 in gap, 0.5 bags of concrete per post.

  1. Sections: 100 ÷ 8 = 12.5 → round up to 13
  2. Posts: 13 + 1 = 14
  3. Rails: 13 × 2 = 26
  4. Pickets: each picket takes 5.5 + 0.5 = 6 in; 100 ft = 1,200 in ÷ 6 = 200
  5. Concrete: 14 posts × 0.5 bag = 7 bags

Expected output: 13 sections, 14 posts, 26 rails, 200 pickets, 7 bags of concrete.

Limitations — what this cannot do

  • Assumes one straight, level run. Corners, ends and gates each change the post count — a corner needs its own post, and gate openings interrupt pickets and need heavier hinge posts. Count each run of a multi-sided yard separately and add gate posts.
  • Rails are counted per section at the spacing length (normally bought as 8 ft rails). If your actual section lengths differ, check rail lengths before ordering cut-to-length lumber.
  • Fasteners, post caps, gate hardware and concrete for unusually deep frost-line holes are not included. Fastener quantity follows your picket count (typically 2 screws or nails per picket per rail).

FAQ

How much does a wood privacy fence cost?

Materials for a wood privacy fence commonly run in the $10–$25 per linear foot range in the US (2025–2026) — posts, rails and pickets as counted above, plus concrete and fasteners — with pressure-treated pine at the low end and cedar higher. Professional installation commonly brings the total to roughly $25–$50 per linear foot depending on region and terrain; get local quotes before budgeting.

How far apart should fence posts be?

8 ft is the standard spacing for wood privacy fences because rails and pickets are sold in matching lengths and it balances strength against post count. Windy sites, tall fences (over 6 ft) and heavy gates argue for 6 ft spacing; enter your spacing above and the counts adjust.

How deep should fence posts be set?

A common rule is one-third of the post in the ground and below the local frost line — for a 6 ft fence that usually means an 8 ft post in a hole about 2–2.5 ft deep, with the post on a few inches of gravel. Frost depth is set by local code and climate; check before you dig, and always call 811 (in the US) for utility locates first.

Will the gaps between pickets close up over time?

Usually the opposite concern: pressure-treated pickets are often installed slightly wet and shrink as they dry, so a small installed gap can grow. Many installers butt pickets tight and let shrinkage create the gap. If you enter a gap here, expect the finished gap to end up a little wider than entered on treated lumber.